Shades of Gold

Fine Gold and Common Alloys in the Jewelry Industry

Alloys

Since most precious metals in their pure form, e.g., as fine gold or fine silver, are too soft for processing into jewelry and thus not stable and durable enough, alloys have become established in the goldsmith's trade. This means that other metals are added to the respective fine metal during a melting process, which changes the properties of the base metal. The newly created metal is a homogeneous mixture of all substances and offers improved characteristics for processing and increased durability of the finished unique pieces.

Fineness

Fineness refers to the proportion of a precious metal in an alloy, stated in parts per thousand (‰) of the total weight. This type of specification is now the standard in the jewelry industry. Fine gold would by definition be marked with 1000 per mille. Since this perfect purity does not occur in reality, the purest form of fine gold is marked with 999/‰.

In addition to the per mille specification, fineness can also be indicated in karats. To denote the purity of gold, karat is usually abbreviated with K. If karat is used as a metric weight unit for gemstones, it is usually abbreviated with ct. The fineness of a jewelry alloy is given in karats in 24ths. In this case, 24 K stands for pure gold.

(Important: For diamonds and gemstones, a carat refers to the absolute weight measure. Here, 1 carat corresponds to exactly 0.2 grams. A diamond weighing 5 carats therefore weighs exactly 1 gram.)

From the preceding definitions, for example, the following most frequently processed gold alloys in goldsmith workshops or the jewelry industry for high-quality jewelry result:

• 750 = 750 parts out of 1000 are pure gold, 250 parts are additional metal
• 18 K = 18 parts gold and 6 parts additional metal

• 585 = 585 parts out of a thousand are pure gold, 415 parts are additional metal
• 14 K = 14 parts gold and 10 parts additional metals

Yellow Gold -

This is arguably the most traditional and popular form of gold. It is characterized by a rich, warm, noble hue that has been a symbol of wealth and prestige for centuries. Its classic color is achieved by mixing pure gold with additional metals such as copper and silver. The more silver contained in the composition, the lighter the yellow tone. 750 yellow gold is consequently richer in yellow tone than a 585 yellow gold alloy. Furthermore, the alloys are characterized by special properties for jewelry manufacturing; for example, a higher hardness, which guarantees increased durability when wearing the finished pieces.

White Gold -

White gold is an alloy consisting of gold and other metals to give it its bright, silver-like color. Typically, metals such as silver, palladium, or nickel are used in combination with gold to produce white gold. The exact composition varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. White gold offers a modern alternative to classic yellow gold. However, the very bright white luster that many people typically associate with white gold is only achieved through an additional rhodium plating in electroplating.

Rose Gold and Red Gold -

Both alloys have regained popularity and significance in recent years. A higher or lower copper content in the alloy determines the saturation of the red tone in the different nuances.

Sterling Silver - 925

925 silver, known as sterling silver, is the most common silver alloy used in jewelry manufacturing. This alloy consists of 925/‰ fine silver out of 1000 parts, and the remaining 75/‰ are added as copper. Sterling silver offers an optimal combination of properties for the jewelry craft.